Everything You Need to Know About Crimp Blocks

Crimp blocks, portable hangboards, lifting edges, no-hang edges—whatever you call them, one thing is clear: they are a must-have for any climber serious about building finger strength and finger health.

When we first started using crimp blocks, we had plenty of questions. So, to save you the same head-scratching, we’ve answered the most common ones.

Is it difficult to use a crimp block?

Answer: No

Using a crimp block is simpler than it might seem. You can set it up in various ways—like wrapping a sling around a sturdy anchor, such as a tree, or attaching it to weights using a carabiner and a lifting pin. None of these methods are inherently wrong or overly complicated.

Are crimp blocks an effective tool for strengthening fingers?

Answer: Yes

Crimp blocks are a highly effective tool for finger strengthening, and they’re a staple in the training regimens of some of the strongest fingers in the world like Yves Gravelle, and Ben Galper. These athletes consistently incorporate crimp blocks into their warm-ups and training sessions to maximize their finger strength.

Are crimp blocks the only way to strengthen fingers?

Answer: No

While crimp blocks are an excellent tool, they’re not the only way to build finger strength. Simply climbing is one of the most straightforward ways to improve your grip, as the act of climbing inherently provides progressive overload for your fingers—provided you’re gradually increasing difficulty and intensity.

The advantage of tools like hangboards and crimp blocks, however, lies in their ability to precisely control the intensity and weight of your finger training. Unlike climbing on a wall, where variables like hold shape and route length vary, these tools offer a consistent and measurable way to target specific grip positions.

Do crimp blocks need to be complicated to be a good tool?

Answer: No

In our experience, the majority of the edges on crimp blocks often go unused. Whether it’s an incut 6mm edge, a sloped 10mm edge, or something similarly specific, these variations can be useful if you’re training for a particular grip type or working toward a specific project. However, for most climbers—especially those who aren’t climbing in the 8B+ range (yet!)—simpler setups work just as well.

If your goal is to develop stronger and healthier fingers, one or two well-designed edges are more than enough. Focus on mastering the basics rather than getting caught up in overly specific options. Keep in mind that consistency and progressive training are far more important than the number of edges on your crimp block.

Should beginners avoid training with crimp blocks?

Answer: No

As a beginner, the best way to improve is by spending time climbing on a variety of routes and holds at the climbing gym or outdoors. That said, if you’re serious about progressing quickly, introducing finger training early can be beneficial—but it must be done with caution.

The key is understanding that tendons adapt more slowly than muscles and don’t experience the same kind of soreness that muscles do. This makes it easy to unintentionally overstrain tendon tissue, especially for enthusiastic beginners who are eager to see results. Starting with light intensity, proper form, and plenty of rest is critical to avoid injuries like pulley strains or tendonitis.

Using a crimp block can be safe and effective for beginners if approached conservatively and balanced with plenty of climbing time. Patience pays off in both performance and injury prevention.

Is technique and form important when using crimp blocks?

Answer: Yes

Proper technique and form are crucial when using crimp blocks, as poor execution can lead to injuries over time. One common mistake occurs when climbers fail to maintain active use of their finger muscles while lifting.

A failed repetition on a crimp block doesn’t mean you can’t lift the weight anymore; instead, it means you’re no longer able to maintain a proper activation. At this point, your fingers are likely passively hanging on your tendons and skeletal system rather than actively engaging your finger muscles. Over time, this passive loading can increase the risk of tendon strain or other injuries.

Does good climbers generally have strong fingers?

Answer: Yes

Long answer short: Climbers need strong fingers to grip small holds for extended periods.

Does having strong fingers automatically make you a good climber?

Answer: No

Think of it like comparing chefs and sharp knives. Most professional chefs ensure their knives are always sharp because it’s an essential tool for their craft. However, simply holding a sharp knife doesn’t mean you can chop as finely or quickly as an experienced chef.

Similarly, strong fingers are an important tool for climbing, but they’re just one part of the equation. Technique, body positioning, footwork, and problem-solving are just as critical—if not more so—when it comes to being a good climber. Take care of your fingers, but remember it’s how you use them that truly counts.

Are hangboards better than crimp blocks?

Answer: No

Hangboards and crimp blocks both have their strengths and weaknesses, making neither inherently better than the other—they simply serve different purposes. Hangboards require less equipment, making them more accessible for climbers who want a straightforward setup. However, this simplicity can make it harder to precisely control the intensity of your training, especially if hanging from your fingers on a particular edge is too challenging.

Crimp blocks, on the other hand, allow for much finer control over training intensity. You can adjust the weight of your lift with precision, but this does require the right setup and equipment, like a lifting pin or weights. Ultimately, both tools are equally useful when used correctly, and your choice should depend on your specific training goals and preferences.

Are crimp blocks better than hangboards?

Answer: No

See the answer above.

Can correct use of crimp blocks prevent finger injuries?

Answer: Yes

Finger health is one of the most discussed topics in climbing, with countless blog posts and videos offering advice. While opinions may vary, certain principles consistently stand out: progressive overload, proper nutrition, and adequate rest are foundational to maintaining healthy fingers (and body!).

Crimp blocks provide one of the most controlled and reliable ways to progressively overload your fingers, allowing you to strengthen them safely and methodically. By carefully increasing intensity over time and avoiding sudden spikes in load, crimp block training helps reduce the risk of injuries while building resilience in your finger tendons and muscles.

Can incorrect use of crimp blocks cause finger injuries?

Answer: Yes

It’s often easier to get injured than to do something correctly, and crimp block training is no exception. Overuse and ramping up your training too quickly are some of the most common causes of finger injuries when starting any new training protocol.

To avoid injury, focus on gradual progression, proper form, and listening to your body. Taking the time to build a solid foundation and resting adequately between sessions is key to making long-term gains without setbacks.

Should you lift heavy with crimp blocks to strengthen fingers?

Answer: Yes

Lifting heavy with a crimp block is one of the most effective ways to build finger strength, as it allows you to progressively overload your finger muscles in a controlled and measurable way. The key is to approach heavy lifting thoughtfully and avoid jumping into maximum loads too quickly.

Start with a weight you can lift comfortably while maintaining good form—typically using a half-crimp position—and gradually increase the load over time as your fingers adapt. Proper warm-ups, rest between sessions, and consistent progression are essential to building strength safely. When done correctly, heavy lifting with a crimp block can yield incredible gains without overstraining your tendons or risking injury.

Should you lift heavy after climbing?

Answer: No
As a general rule, it’s best to avoid attempting a one-rep max or heavy lifting session after spending three hours climbing on razor-thin crimps in a steep overhang. Your fingers and muscles will already be fatigued, increasing the risk of injury when pushing heavy loads.

That said, not all climbing sessions are equally taxing. If your climbing was light or moderate in intensity, doing additional training afterward is usually fine. The key is to use common sense and listen to your body—if you’re feeling drained or your fingers are tired, it’s better to rest than risk overtraining or injury.

Are crimp blocks a good warm-up for climbing?

Answer: Yes

Crimp blocks are particularly useful when climbing outdoors, where you might not have the luxury of easy warm-up routes like you do at the gym.

By progressively engaging your fingers with controlled resistance, crimp blocks help prepare your tendons and muscles for the demands of harder climbs, reducing the risk of injury and improving performance right from the start.

Should you buy a crimp block?

Answer: Yes

If you’ve made it this far in the article, you’re clearly interested in finger strength and looking for ways to improve. A crimp block is a versatile and effective tool to add to your training arsenal.

Take our Mini Blok, for example. It’s a fantastic entry point for finger training without unnecessary complexity. It features two key edge sizes—10mm and 20mm—and can be configured to create an incut for easier lifts. Plus, the rounded bottom is perfect for pinch practice, giving you even more variety in your training. Don’t underestimate the power of simplicity—it’s all you need to start building stronger, healthier fingers.

DISCLAIMER

We are not medical professionals, and this is not a guide for correct lifting, training, or rehabilitation. Using a crimp block and hangboard is performed at your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk of injury.